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Ride Guide
Pass on touring advice to the Bear or ask him questions, about riding this great country (or any other)!
Outback service
Peter Lunow has written to give Sandfire Flats Roadhouse, up in north-western WA, a plug.
“It may be out of the way a bit but the people managing the place are great. It’s about 140km north of Port Hedland. The place burnt down about 12 months ago and they are working out of a donga selling fuel etc, but they have some motel rooms and one bedroom dongas available.
“Chris runs the place, loves Triumphs and is getting a Bonneville delivered there soon. Good on you Sandfire Flats Roadhouse – it’s open for business and likes bikers!” | |
That’s good to know up there where it can be a long way between drinks – for your bike and for you!
Park Pass? Maybe
Andrew McCarthy has more info on riding in the USA. “Bear,” he writes, “just a couple of points about the excellent article on 'Touring America' in ARR#46.
“The best value thing one can obtain prior to leaving for the USA is a US National Parks Annual Pass. The pass is US$80 and it can be purchased online months in advance, with the 12 month validity not being activated until it is used for the first time. The average entrance fee to parks is about US$20 per car per day, so you can see with several hundred parks it wouldn't take long to start saving money.”
This is true, of course, but as I’ve just discovered bikes only seem to cost US$5, not US$20, so unless you’re going to see a whole lot of parks it might not be such a good deal. But Andrew has other advice, too.
“There are not fragments of Route 66, there's a whole heap of it. Over its life before decommissioning there were many alignments and variations and it is still possible to travel from Chicago to LA using the Mother Road for the vast majority of the its previous 2500 mile length. It may now be a service road running alongside the interstate or a section of Portland cement paving running through a decaying 'rust belt' town, but its there. If it’s the 'mom and pop' motels you want, this is where you'll find them.
Maps can be obtained from National Route 66 Association and I've noticed that there is an SD card map to go into a GPS system. Be prepared to get lost on it regularly, but it is a hell of a run.”
Too true, Andrew, and I’m just about to produce a little story on it.
Off to The Hill
Steve Davies is keen to get amongst it. “Just read your January 2008 issue and the story of the trans-Australian ride on the Kwaka,” he writes. “This has sparked my imagination and I have decided on a trip to Broken Hill for the outback experience.
“Can you recommend the best route to take from Sydney? My searches on the net seem to indicate Bathurst, West Wyalong and Ivanhoe. My first inclination was to go through Dubbo, which is the furthest west I've been (in a car mind you). I was thinking of one or two nights stop over there and back, just taking my time. Maybe seven or eight days all up.
“I'll be on a 1994 Suzuki GSX750F if that influences your advice, I've only just bought it so based on city riding I would say 220ks per tank.”
Hmm, interesting question, Steve. How much dirt riding experience have you had? If your answer is “not a lot” or something along those lines, I would suggest you give the Ivanhoe route a miss, especially on a road bike.
I haven't been on the route from Ivanhoe to Wilcannia - usually referred to as the Gum Lake Track - for a good many years, but I'd be prepared to bet that the bulldust is as thick as ever and the holes it conceals just as deep.
Hillston-Mossgiel can be none too flash, too, especially when it's been raining (as it has). If you really don't get more than 220km on a sealed road (I suspect you'd get more out of the GSX-F) then you'd never make the Gum Lake Track; it's only 200km, but the soft dirt just chews through the gas.
I used to visit friends in Cobar fairly regularly and often pushed on to go camping in Kinchega National Park. My preferred route was always Dubbo - Nyngan - Cobar - Wilcannia. I then turned south along the track west of the Darling (the eastern track was rubbish) but you would continue to Broken Hill instead.
It's all tar that way. Given your limited range you will have a problem between Cobar and Emmdale Roadhouse, which is just over 260km, so you would be best advised to carry spare fuel.
If you do want to stay south, go through West Wyalong - Hay - Balranald - Wentworth and then take the (very boring) Silver City Highway. It's 265km, but there's fuel halfway at Coombah.
Don't ride at dawn or dusk or at night, and keep your eyes open!
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| | Dam it all
“G’day The Bear,” writes Bill Pedler. “This morning whilst firmly ensconced in my reading room, you know the one with the hard porcelain seating, I read a letter from ‘Burkey’ at the Gold Coast about the Dam at Booyal. Mate, I gotta tell yer it’s called the Paradise Dam. The Boondooma Dam he is talking about is about 200ks or so further west at a little town called Proston.
“Paradise Dam is a great little spot to call into and the Ulysses branch runs regular lunchtime rides to have a BBQ there. The place is well kept and looked after and the BBQs are free and it’s a really terrific ride (a bit short but the corners are great) so long you don’t run into the local constabulary on the way in. They tend to belt it a bit because the sports bike riders just can’t help themselves.
“I just thought we shouldn’t give people a bum steer on the name.”
Thanks, Bill, and yes – I’ll see you in Townsville.
Not so Crook – well!
This note from Steve Nesbitt is just what we like to read. “Bear,” he writes, “I thought the service we experienced at a pub at Crookwell this last weekend deserved to be brought to the attention of your readers.
“We arrived after dark into Crookwell (near Goulburn, NSW) having spent the day exploring mostly back roads between there and Hill End (great day but that’s a bigger story). The Horse and Hound pub in the main street had room available for the five of us and when asked if they had somewhere off the road we could put our bikes he asked us to bring them around the back of the pub. We had no idea that he intended for us to put them in the function room which was not to be used that evening.
“Images attached to this email show the bikes on the dance floor (with function tables and the bar in the background) where they stayed that night and a view of the outside of the pub so others may easily recognise it.”
Must-go mussels
In his usual brief but information-packed way, Dave Milligan from Get Routed motorcycle transport wrote to say that he “thought you might like to check this out. http://www.musselinn.co.nz/ I'm gunna next time I'm over there on a bike. Stay a day or two and try a beer or two.”
I suspect he’s right. Now, how do I convince Mrs Bear that I need to duck over the ditch again?
H.E.L.P.
“Hi Bear,” writes Alan Wilson, “I have a question I'm hoping you'll be able to help me with. A friend just purchased a new Heritage Softail and with the purchase received special roadside assistance from Harley. They will recover your bike from basically anywhere and transport it to basically anywhere. When I rang them they said they were exclusively for Harleys.
“I own a Blackbird and I'm hoping that you are aware of a roadside assist that a rider can join, similar to what the NRMA offers car drivers.”
Well, you’re in luck because the Honda Riders Club has something similar, called Honda Assist. Just drop the club a line at hrca@waterfront.net.au and Rob will fill you in on the details. Several other brands offer the same service, just contact head office or talk to your dealer.
What a Beauty
Richard Chaplin tells me that “a friend and I have just returned from a five-day ride from Sydney encompassing the NSW and Victorian Alpine regions. We rode some sensational roads.
“The reason, however, for this letter is to provide some feedback on the Allamar Motel at Mt Beauty (Vic) who advertise in your magazine. The owners (Alison and Stuart Hodge) bought the motel about three years ago and have put an enormous amount of effort into making it what it is today – a first-class motel that offers a warm welcomes to bikers.
“They are very friendly, alert to your individual needs and have a great sense of humour. The gardens in front of the motel with views over the valley to the surrounding mountains are a wonderful place to relax after a long day in the saddle. The rooms are excellent. Dinner was served in the dining room (which also has stunning views of the mountains) and which is part of Zak’s Wine Bar attached to the motel, and also owned by Stuart and Alison.
“Before dinner, however, we indulged in several of the local boutique beers available in Zak’s Wine Bar (guided by Stuart’s experience and taste for a good beer!). A good breakfast was also served in the dining room with both full cooked and continental available.
“Stuart and Alison do a special reduced price for bikers, and compared to most other places I have stayed in Australia it is a very competitive price – we will return. Our stay at the Allamar Motel was memorable and if you or your readers find themselves in that beautiful part of Australia this is the place to spend the night.”
What can I add to that? Go do it!
Seal of approval
Lee Tomren’s got good news for Sydneysiders with an adventurous streak.
“Rode the Goulburn to Oberon [road] again yesterday. Everything is now sealed from the river (gorge) up to Oberon. Only 3.5km of ungraded remains just before the Goulburn side of the river and there was a sealing crew working on it.”
I hope it doesn’t become too popular, Lee!
Sideways on the Ox
Bob Gilligan had a little trouble on the Oxley Highway, and contacted the RTA about it only to get the usual brushoff in return. He wrote back.
“I wish to advise that the report that the loose gravel was swept from the area is incorrect as the gravel was all over the road the day that I came off. A police motorcyclist that was attending a more serious accident, further on towards Gingers Creek, very nearly came off on the same corner because of the gravel. As I was picking my bike up, a bike heading in the opposite direction nearly came to grief as well and that shows that the gravel was on both sides of the roadway.
“I have been informed by a local Ulyssian that about eight other bikes had spills on that corner and one was the next day and both the police and ambulance attended. I do not know what time the road was inspected but it must have been after the incident that required the ambulance in attendance.
“I am pleased to see that a review is to take place of the method of repairing the road surface and also of the signage. The signage that simply shows a car and wiggly lines is not good enough, especially on this road. A sign that said ‘LOOSE gravel’ would have been more appropriate. I have been riding for over 30 years and this is the first time I have put a bike down on the road.
“This road is well known as a bike road and is a fantastic tourist drawcard for our area.
“I have speaking to the editor of Roadrider magazine, Mr Peter Thoeming, and he is going to ride the road and take Mr Luke Hartsuyker, the Federal MP for Coffs, along on his bike. I am sure that a small change to the method of road patching to eliminate loose gravel would not be cost inhibitive in view of the safety and the well being of the many motorcyclist who wish to visit the magnificent Mid North Coast area.”
I haven’t had a chance to drag Luke out there, but I’ll do it first chance I get. Wouldn’t it be good if all road maintenance crews took bikes seriously (some do).
Maldon mealtime
“G’day Bear,” writes Robert MacDonald. “Just got back from one of your recommended rides in Victoria, no.42, or the Calder detour. What a great day and a great ride. I think you forgot to highlight just how good that straight section between Newbridge and Bridgewater is. I really opened it up, what a great country we live in.
“It’s the third one of your suggested rides that I have been on, the others being no.46 Grand Ridge Road and no.37 Wee Jasper Road. I am not long back to riding having returned two years ago after being sidetracked raising a family. I got myself a BMW 650 Dakar and have been loving it. I run my own business so I get to ride it during the week to see clients in the city; cheaper on the gas, no e-tag, no parking hassles and best of all no traffic jams.
“At Easter, I took the kids away to give my pregnant wife a break and win a few brownie points. You will never in your wildest dreams believe what my wife got for me while I was away. As we got close to home after the weekend we were talking with the missus, she seemed very interested to know our eta. As I turned the Commodore into our street I was excited to be going to see my lovely after four days alone with my four children. Imagine the look on my face as I went to turn into my driveway only to find a Harley-Davidson ’07 Fat Boy parked there. That’s right, now I have two bikes.
“Well, the hog just ate up that straight section I mentioned earlier and I had quite possibly the best pub lunch I have ever had in Maldon. I didn’t get the name of the place but Ian the barman tells me it’s been a licensed premises for over 100 years. All I know is it’s on the left as you take the left fork heading out of town to Newbridge. Anyway I could go on for ages, I have plenty of plans for rides ahead and even some business ideas involving motorcycling I would love to discuss with you sometime, until then I will continue to enjoy my mid-life crisis.’
Gee, Robert, some people really do have hard lives, don’t they.
A good word…
Beemer Bob, who writes a lot but rarely gets published because his letters mainly consist of abuse, finally has good word to say.
“Thank you for printing my letter about Towamba, even though you cut out all that stuff about what crap (name of well-known European motorcycle manufacturer not based in Bavaria removed) is. I reckon the Ride Guide is enough to buy the magazine for, all by itself so now I’ll buy it even if there’s no story about a BMW in it.”
High praise indeed. Note that he actually wrote “thank you”, which is a new thing. Maybe we can civilise him enough to print his letters a little more often. Then again, maybe not.
Okay, that’s it for this issue but keep the cards and letters coming, folks. Whether it’s a question or (even better) a bit of advice about touring anywhere in this wonderful brown land or anywhere else in the known universe, send it to thebear@universalmagazines.com.au or ARR, PO Box 2066, Boronia Park NSW 2111. |
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