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Touring Tuscany
The painless way to get that Italian experience?
Our tour of Tuscany initially was a compromise between my long-standing desire to go there and my husband’s relentless yearning to ride whenever – and wherever – he can. Now, looking back, neither of us can think of a better way to explore these gently rolling green hills and the picturesque countryside right in the middle of Italy.
For both riders and pillions, a motorbike is a magnificent way to experience the region. The freedom of the bike means you can inhale the fresh air, you can smell the local fare and you can get into to some of the most incredible historic villages with ease. And, because the landscape is defined by hills and valleys, not only is it striking to look at, it’s perfect for cruising.
| | We spent seven days riding a Ducati, on a tour organised by European Motorcycle Adventures. Tour operator Ross Naylor is Australian, but has five years of experience running bike tours in Europe.
Colle it home
The tour is based in Colle Val D’Elsa, not far from Florence. The great thing about having a base was being able to travel light during the day, knowing we were going back to a hot shower and a change of clothes before heading out at night. And Colle is picture-postcard pretty.
The “old village” is built on a hilltop and connects to the “new village” in the valley below via glass lift. This is Italian ingenuity at its best and a unique way to go into town for a few groceries. Another of Colle’s charms is a little shop that sells both gelato and beer at all hours of the day and night. Naturally, this is where we (along with the locals) tended to congregate at sunset to reflect on the day and consider our options for dinner.
The first day of riding was all about getting a feel for the hire bike and was a fairly localised trip around the heart of Tuscany to San Gimignano, renowned as the setting of many Hollywood movies. The two things that struck us most after that first morning’s ride were the lightness of the traffic and the good condition of the roads. This, after all, is a rural area and you might expect the bitumen to be in various stages of neglect. Not here. And the lack of traffic meant we could just relax and enjoy a leisurely jaunt through sweeping curves and twisty corners, against a backdrop of breathtaking scenery.
Getting high
For lunch we moved onto Volterra which, while famous for its alabaster craft, museums and churches, is also home to the ruins of a spectacular ancient amphitheatre.
This hilltop town sits 1770 feet above sea level, so we parked the bikes in the town below and went up, returning a few hours later to discover a displeased parking inspector prowling around. The trouble was that we’d parked in car spaces instead of on the footpath as is customary for bikes in Italy. But somehow, we managed to communicate that we were just a bunch of tourists who really meant no harm and finally the inspector’s scowl changed to a grin. We shook hands and he wished us a safe holiday.
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| | The Italians are gregarious and engaging and the bike you’re riding becomes a conversation topic wherever you go, which became obvious to us the next day, when during a short stop for coffee on our way to Monterrigioni, an old man saw our bikes and invited us into his Guzzi workshop – a collection of bikes, bike pieces, spare parts, photos, trophies, tools and memorabilia – some of it as old as he was (at least 80) all crammed into an area about four square metres. It turned out that his brother had been a Guzzi racetrack star and this guy had been the team mechanic.
One Futa on the road
Without giving too much more of the tour away, we also spent one day riding the famous Futa Pass that takes you to the Ducati Factory at Bologna.
This trip also takes in the Autostrada for some of the way, which frankly, is not for the faint hearted, but it’s only the speed of the motorway that’s daunting. Most Italians own motorbikes for convenience and practicality and as a result, drivers are generally courteous and accommodating.
The Futa Pass certainly lives up to its reputation. In fact, user-driven website bestbikingroads.com rates it 5.0 for corners, 4.0 for scenery and a 3.5 for road surface (out of 5.0) and we would have to agree. Many of the roads around this area are actually Ducati test roads, which gives you some idea of how impressive they are.
None of the rides on the European Motorcycle Adventures tour are compulsory, so we were free to do our own thing and maps were provided, but we found that Ross’ familiarity with the area was a bonus when it came to finding out of the way villages and the best riding routes to get there.
Evening activities were not obligatory either and tended to be spontaneous with the exception of one or two delightful surprises organised by Ross, which gave us a taste of the “real Tuscany” and a chance to meet some of the locals and partake in village life. It’s good that bike riding burns calories because we spent the week eating and drinking – the Tuscan region is famous for olive oil, simple fare, and of course, Chianti.
Tours can be customised, but we took the standard option that offered a comprehensive view of the region including Pisa, Siena and Florence. We reckon it’s some of the best riding you’ll ever do. In fact, we loved it so much we’re planning another trip.
Information:
Tour dates: May and September 2008. See www.europeanmotorcycleadventures.com
Bookings: Ross Naylor, European Motorcycle Adventures
Tel: (02) 8003 5249, or 0418 133 756. Email: rossn50@optusnet.com.au
Group bookings available.
Getting there: Fly into Rome or Milan. May your own way to Colle Val D’Elsa. Trains and buses are cheap, reliable and easy.
Prices: Starting at $3105 for riders and $1895 for pillions (ex airfares). Includes bike hire and accommodation.
Bikes: Choose from Suzuki, Honda, Ducati or BMW before you go. Take your own helmet and riding gear.
Accommodation: Villas are self-contained and equipped with all mod cons, swimming pool and laundry service.
Insurance: Organise your own.
Licence: International bike licence required (ask the automobile association in your state). It’s also a good idea to carry your passport while riding.
Visas: Holiday visas for Australians are generally not required, but if uncertain of your circumstances, check http://www.smartraveller.gov.au
Safety: Tuscany is pretty safe but do need to take the same precautions as anywhere and look after your belongings. All tour bikes all have lockable panniers.
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